For a variety of reasons, the microplane-style grater is one of my “go to” tools in the kitchen. Used for zesting citrus fruits and finely grating cheeses and spices, the microplane-style grater is an indispensable tool for which there is no substitute.

Microplane-style graters, often referred to as the brandname “Microplane” or more generically as fine or ultrafine graters, are used when a recipe calls for finely grated food items. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes, from long and skinny to short and squat. Depending on how you plan to use, you can find microplane-style graters with long handles or tiny hand-held versions. Any of them will do the trick, so find what works for you.

You may be asking yourself why you can’t just use a regular grater for the task at hand? The answer is that you have probably worn your grater down to a dull edge with its everyday grating of hard cheeses, veggies or other foods, and it probably isn’t fine enough. The benefit of the microplane-style grater is the beautiful results. Made from hard, durable steel, just the slightest pressure yields soft and fluffy piles of lemon zest or parmesan cheese. The end product not only looks pretty, it makes recipes a breeze. For example, sauces benefit from finely grated, quick melting ingredients that incorporate smoothly and easily, and baked goods benefit from the zip of finely grated citrus zest that is more easily distributed throughout a batter or on top of a finished product.

As I noted above, microplane-style graters come in a variety of shapes and sizes and under many brands. If you only have room for one type, I recommend the long rasp grater. This type is very versatile and can be used for a variety of food items. They can also be purchased in every budget, with perfectly great styles around only $5.00. And if you take good care of it, the microplane-style grater should last virtually forever.

Stay tuned next week for a review of the spiral vegetable cutter.

What a tool!

A southwest Ohio movie theater made a big mistake when, instead of showing the recently-released Disney film “Inside Out”, it “accidentally” showed the horror movie “Insidious: Chapter 3.” Parents quickly scooped up their kids and ran out of the theater. The theater’s manager declines to discuss how the mistake occurred. Keep horror out of your kitchen as well by using the right tools for the job.

COVER IMAGE: Detail of a classic Microplane zester. This particular model can be purchased for less than $10 on Amazon.com or other online vendors.

Since we last featured knives in this column, I thought I’d highlight the good knife’s necessary partner – a hardwood cutting board.  Nothing will turn your knife blade to a dull cutter better fit for digging around in the yard than using it on the wrong cutting surface. Using a glass or stone cutting board is the fastest way to ruin your knife’s edge!

For chopping, dicing and slicing, a good blade needs a hard surface.  The best mate?  A hardwood cutting board.  Cherry, maple, walnut – all will do just fine.  These tough boards are designed to protect the blade while providing a stable cutting surface that won’t score easily, which helps prevent water and bacteria from entering into the board.

When shopping for a good board, you want to look for a true hard wood – not soft woods like firs, pines or redwoods.  You should also look for boards that are described as being made with “end-grain” construction.  This makes them more durable and less likely to split or scar because the wood fibers are at the surface of the board, allowing the blade to run against the end of the fiber instead of across.

You can find good quality hardwood cutting boards in a variety of locations from local specialty shops, to big box kitchen stores, and of course, on the internet.

For those of you with environmental concerns surrounding the use of hardwoods, look for places that certify that their boards are sustainable or renewable and identify where the wood used in the board is sourced.

What about bamboo cutting boards you ask?  These boards have their pros and cons.  Many believe that bamboo, which is actually a grass not a wood, makes a terrific cutting board because it is renewable and eco-friendly.  It acts in a similar manner as hardwood, but it is more porous and it can sometimes splinter.  Bamboo boards can also start to get “fuzzy” over long time use, which can increase the chances that water and bacteria will enter the board.

Is plastic a good alternative?  Plastic cutting boards definitely have their place in the kitchen.  Professional chefs often recommend that you have a color-coded set to keep meat, poultry, fish and vegetables on separate cutting surfaces.  Further, these days, most plastic cutting boards are hard and durable, and dishwasher friendly.  However, they will still dull your knives faster than a hardwood board, and they harbor just as much, if not more, bacteria, especially if the top layer of plastic starts to fray.  Thus, I rank these cutting boards below hardwoods and bamboo.
Investing in a cutting board will make a world of difference in the amount of time your knife blades stay sharp, and make an attractive addition to your countertop as well.

Stay tuned next week for a review of microplane-style graters.

What a Tool!

The other tool of the week?  An Australian woman who ended up in the hospital because of her skinny jeans.  After squatting in her jeans for several hours while helping a friend move, this woman ended up hospitalized and could not walk for four days because the jeans had cut the blood flow to her legs and caused nerve damage.  While she certainly did not anticipate or deserve the unexpected results of her fashion choice, perhaps next time she’ll go with a looser option.  Something we recommend for the kitchen as well.

COVER IMAGE: The image at the top of the page is an acacia wood cutting board, 20 x 14″, with end-grain construction for durability, an excellent choice at only $66.

Ask any chef and they’ll tell you that the one kitchen tool they can’t live without is a good knife.  The same is true in my home kitchen.  I cannot live without my stunning Shun knives, and I’ll tell you why they are a good investment for you too.

Japanese knives rank among the best in the word.  And yes, they come at a price.  My Shun Premier knives range from $100 to $200 individually, or start at $350 for a three-knife set – but they are well worth the price.  The first time you cut through a tomato or pepper like you’re cutting into warm butter, or make razor thin slices of meats or cheese without effort, you’ll swear you’ll never use another knife again.

The construction of the knife itself alone justifies the price.  When looking for a good knife you want a high quality steel or ceramic blade that is encased all the way through the handle of the knife, and a handle with a comfortable grip for optimal control.  Manufactured in the knife-making capital of Seki City, Shun’s knives are made from layered damascus steel with a striking, hand-hammered finish (known as “tsuchime” in Japanese), that reduces drag when cutting, keeping foods from sticking to the knife blade.  And don’t let the pretty pattern fool you.  Sandwiched between more than 30 layers of that Damascus steel, lies a thin hard core that creates the edge.  At Rockwell 61, it’s extremely hard, which gives it the ability to hold a 16-degree edge for a very long time.

As a female cook, I like the Shun for its light weight as well.  It does not feel heavy or clunky in my hand, and the handle has a nice grip which contours well to my slim hands.  For this reason, it may be more comfortable for you than some of the German knives on the market.

Still feeling overwhelmed by the idea of a big investment?  The good news is that you don’t need many knives.  If you are just starting out, look for a Chef’s knife in the 8”-10” range, a small utility knife in the 4”-6” range, and a serrated bread knife.  Add a good pair of kitchen shears, and you are good to go.  You can always add more knives to your collection as you desire.

Bottom line – try out several knives to get the best fit and weight for your hand and let the kitchen fun begin.  You’ll look forward to slicing and dicing with these premium blades, and that prep work will be surprisingly faster without the struggle of cutting using dull or wiggly blades.  While it is true that sharper blades typically mean less cuts to your own hands and fingers watch out!  My Shun knives are so beautifully sharp that I have nicked myself simply by accidentally grazing my finger on the back edge while chopping.  While I call that a sign of a good knife, we don’t want anyone in the emergency room!

Stay tuned next week for a review of the knife’s partner – a strong cutting board.

What a Tool!

The other tool of the week?  Johnny Manziel.  Manziel, who just completed rehab, has announced that he is letting go of his infamous money sign and dropping his “Johnny Football” persona.  While he is to be commended for these efforts, we’ll see what the new football season brings and whether he can really change his errant ways.  Perhaps refraining from throwing water bottles at the fans will be a good start.  Side note – frustration in the kitchen doesn’t end well either.  Always chop responsibly.

Seattle has several great steakhouses, of course. Ruth’s Chris. The Metropolitan Grill. Daniel’s Broiler. John Howie’s menu, though, is really in a class of it’s own; I haven’t visited another steakhouse in the state that offers such excellence and variety to the true vodinophile ((I admit it: I just made this word up. Vodinó is Greek for beef.)).

Appetizers & Sides

What is even more impressive, perhaps, is the fact that everything else on the menu is so remarkably good, too. If you don’t have heart problems, you should try the tempura fried Kurobuta bacon from the appetizer menu! Several long bacon slices deep-fried in a light tempura batter are usually served vertically in a cup, but they don’t last long on our table. The spicy Habanero Butter Shrimp are also a favorite; they manage to be mildly spicy and creamy at the same time.

The side dishes are equally good, if not better. I’m not a big fan of Brussels sprouts as a general rule, but John Howie’s fried Brussels sprouts are good enough to convert any sprout-skeptic. Sliced in half and charred around the edges, the sprouts are infused with a lemony vinaigrette and topped with real Parmigiana Reggiano, fresh from the micro-plane. The sprouts’ anticipated bitterness is (almost) completely absent, leaving you with a mouthful of salty, savory green goodness with a bit of citrusy brightness. The twice-baked potatoes (with bacon), Maine lobster mashed potatoes, and Beecher’s Flagship Reserve Cheddar mac & cheese are all not to be missed.

Steaks

[GattMore] On my most recent visit, I ordered an 8 oz. American Wagyu zabuton steak. A zabuton is a Japanese sitting cushion, but as I was unfamiliar with the cut of beef, I asked our server for some information. It turns out that the steak is a square cut (thus, the name) from the short-rib between a ribeye and a strip steak. The cut is only popular with Wagyu beef, as the meat is well marbled with fat. This, he said, produces a steak with the buttery, smooth flavor of a ribeye with the fuller flavor and even texture of a strip steak.

And that is exactly what I received. I ordered my steak medium-rare, and it arrived red in the middle, which was perfect ((If you’re used to home-cooked steaks, or steaks ordered from most other restaurants, this would probably be considered “rare”. John Howie’s menu describes each level, rare through very well, so make sure that you know what you’re ordering before it comes to the table!)). I added a pinch of black Hawaiian salt from the tower and enjoyed the mildness of the flavor; it was tender enough that chewing seemed like more of a joy than a necessity, though in truth, the cut did maintain a definite beef-grained texture.

[Smack] Eye of the ribeye.

Desserts

There’s something especially fun about having dessert made table-side, and even more so when it involves open flames leaping from a pan of melted sugar and butter. And luckily, John Howie’s bananas foster tastes as good as it looks, but if you’re not a fan of bananas, you can also get table-side cherries jubilee. I also felt obligated to try the Boston Cream Pie, which is always one of my favorites, and John Howie’s was as good as any I’ve ever had.

Service

Even ignoring the expert table-side dessert preparation, the service at John Howie Steak is among the best I’ve experienced, and we’re no strangers to high-end establishments. Our waiters have always been knowledgeable, friendly and attentive. Perhaps even more impressive are their the black-clad helpers who appear and vanish from the table side almost unnoticed, like a team of hospitality ninjas… clearing plates, filling drinks, replacing napkins. One of the children at our table was provided with a small packet of crayons to decorate her place-mat; her discarded wrapper didn’t rest for five seconds before I noticed a ninja hand deftly snatch it from the table and disappear in the background. As with any restaurant, some hosts are better than others, but even the worst ones are great.

Price

There’s no getting around it… this level of dining comes at a cost. Choosing among the most expensive items on the menu, a single appetizer, salad, steak (6 oz. filet), vegetable, potato, dessert, and cup of coffee could cost $288 dollars. Granted, this is based on the most expensive steak, a Japanese Wagyu Filet Mignon ($160) and a cup of kopi luwak coffee ($45), but it also leaves out wine and cocktails. Most of their steaks fall within the $60-100 price range, with no sides. If dealing with prices in that range are going to keep you from completely enjoying your meal, you might try their happy-hour menu at the bar instead.

Conclusion

Truly excellent, but not a bargain.

Disagree? Let us know in the comments section below!

The decor is nice… casual but bordering on formal, with black and red heavy tablecloths and modern dishes in various shapes and colors. On warm summer days, you can choose to sit at one of the tables on the back garden patio. From the main dining room a large window provides a view into the kitchen where you can watch Chef Rocky prepare your meal.

Everything on the menu looks good; it contains a mixture of creole and good ol’ Southern soul food, with just a hint of the Pacific Northwest making an appearance. The menu claims that ingredients are sourced locally whenever possible, and with steelhead trout available, they must be. Rumor has it that the Chef also (seasonally) gardens his own vegetables.

We started with an appetizer of Andouille & Shrimp (served over cheese-grits) and quickly agreed that they were excellent… and if you get them at Happy Hour for $5, they’re a steal. The grits are always creamy, the sausage is nice and spicy, and the shrimp are not skimpy.

One of the things that I love about Ole Soul is that when they bring water to your table, they also bring a little plate of fruit and berries that you can add to it for flavoring. Every restaurant should do that.

I’ve tried several different entrees at Ole Soul, and they’ve all been good, though some have been better than others. The fried chicken is first-rate, especially when ordered with creole spice (you can also order it without). When I tried the creole fried steelhead, the fish was perfectly cooked but it was not particularly spicy. The ribs are quite good, and the portions are massive… the serving in the picture is a half-rack! I’m a big fan of their cornbread; it’s moist and holds together and has just a touch of sweetness.

My only real complaint about my most recent meal was that my chicken was purported to be served with fried green tomatoes, which I love…. but what arrived were fried red tomatoes, which is a completely different thing. Instead of the firm, tangy freshness of green tomatoes, they were sweet and mushy. Maybe green tomatoes are hard to source out of season… but if they can’t get them, they should change the menu; fried pickles or even fried okra would have been a better substitute.

For dessert, the strawberry shortcake was quite good, but nothing unexpected. The “Southern Style” Twinkie sounded amazing… basically a deep-fried slice of corn bread with strawberries, whipped cream, and some kind of a sweet bourbon sauce. Unfortunately, I didn’t think that the balance was right; it wasn’t sweet enough to be a dessert… and the deep fried crust actually made it pretty salty. I took a few bites and left the rest. That said, I’ve never had anything like it… so they get a couple of extra points for originality. Maybe it will suit some visitors’ tastes better than mine.

Overall, the experience there is great, and I’d gladly go back any time.

If you know Everett at all, Ole Soul is easy to find; just get onto Hewitt Ave and head towards the waterfront; you’ll see the sign on the right before the street dead-ends. They don’t seem to have a website, but they do have a facebook page.

Address: 1105 Hewitt, Everett, Washington 98204
Phone: (425) 252-4000
They do accept reservations.

Events & Specials

Thursday nights are Jambalaya Night, if you’re a fan of real Cajun cuisine. Now and then the restaurant has special wine-pairing events and bourbon whisky dinners; keep an eye on their facebook page for further info. You might also want to watch their page for notices of upcoming blues and jazz performances; singer Kristi Devries seems like a frequent guest.

Rate It & Comment Below!

Have you had a different experience than us? Share it in the comment section below. You can also leave a rating for the restaurant by using the “Reader Rating” system at the bottom of the rating box. You’ll have the option to provide an overall rating between 1 and 10 points, but if you’d like to explain your rating in more detail, please do so in the comment section. For the sake of consistency, you might want to read about how we do our ratings first.

From the outside, the restaurant is not particularly distinctive; it occupies the northernmost space in a strip-mall shared with an Asian grocery store,  and a furniture rental shop, a paint store and Lanna Thai Restaurant. Inside, the decor is just a step above the a typical strip mall Pho joint: it’s clean but utilitarian, with lacquered topped tables, a wood-grain vinyl floor, wood and steel chairs,  and a few Asian prints and statuettes scattered around the periphery.

Once you’re seated, though, the fun begins. About half of the tables have at least a partial view of the noodle-master through the kitchen window. With the banging of the noodle dough against the counter during the stretching process, he can be hard to ignore. Each guest is handed a menu and a noodle-soup card. If you’re in the mood for noodles, you can simply mark the check-boxes on the card, choosing between different types of noodles,  broths, a dozen or so proteins, and several vegetables. If you don’t want noodles, you can order from their menu of more common Chinese fare.

The current selection card contains the following items, but it has changed a few times since over the past several months, so we expect that it will continue to do so:

All three broths can be quite good. In general, the chicken broth and the beef broth are flavorful but light, salty enough to be tasty but light enough not to overpower the flavor of the noodles and other ingredients. The 3rd soup option is a spicy Sichuan broth, and we’ve experienced some inconsistency here (this is a Smack favorite). Sometimes the Sichuan broth is a rich, brown, spicy broth… but other visits we’re served something like the chicken broth with a dash of chili oil floating on top, which is a little disappointing.

I would be remiss if didn’t mention the single dessert option that I’ve tried: Chinese doughnuts. These come piled on a plate, fresh from the deep fryer and coated with a layer of sugar. Unlike American doughnuts, these have no hole and the dough is more bready than sweet, balancing nicely with the sugar coating. I suppose they’re reminiscent of the funnel-cakes or elephant ears that you’d find at a carnival booth, but not quite as sweet, and of course, much smaller.

Before each visit, I tell myself that I’m going to branch out and order something from the full menu, but each time I visit, I order noodles.

It’s hard not to, they’re so good. The hand-pulled noodles have the wonderful firmness and flavor of fresh noodles. The hand-shaved noodles, also fresh, are almost as good but slippery and hard to eat with the plastic chop-sticks that are provided: opt for the pulled instead. I like the standard and spinach noodles equally, but usually prefer the spinach with the beef broth, and plain noodles with the chicken (though there isn’t really much difference in flavor between the noodles… it may just be aesthetic).

The duck option in the noodles seems like a great idea, but it’s served Chinese style (ie, cut up with the bones still in it), and I find that it’s too much work to be worth it, though I normally love duck.

Questions? Comments?

We’re always curious to hear about your experiences, too! If you have something to share, or would like some further information, just let us know in the comment section below! And don’t forget to ADD YOUR RATING of the restaurant in the box below, too!

The King Noodle House is at 7815 Evergreen Way, Everett, WA 98203. They also have a pretty decent website, at http://www.kingnoodlehouse.com

So, here is my list, in no particular order:

1. Babette’s Feast (1987)

The only Oscar winner in our list, Babette’s Feast is a French food lover’s dream.  This Danish film, set in a small coastal town in 19th century Denmark, highlights the power of the flavors and aromas of special foods to encapsulate a moment in time and to conjure up those vivid memories and emotions of times past.

Babette is a French refugee cook working for a Danish family, and after winning a substantial sum of money, she decides to cook a true French dinner for a small, village celebration. A synopsis of the plot, though, will just make the movie sound dull… so ignore what I’ve written here and set aside a couple of hours to watch it!

In the late 1980s, this film played at art-house theaters in the USA, but now it can be found in on Bluray / DVD, or streamed online through Amazon or Hulu Plus.

2. Tampopo (1985)

Not just a great food-film, also one of my favorite movies, period (GattMore). But let me get this out of the way first: this movie is weird. That’s part of what makes it so wonderful, really.

Primarily, this Japanese dramatic comedy is about Tampopo, the widow proprietor of a floundering ramen shop, and her quest to transform herself into a first-class ramen chef with the help of two foodie truck drivers and their cohorts.

But the movie also includes brief vignettes of several other characters: a yakuza gangster with a food fetish, a criminal on his way to prison, a dying mother preparing dinner for her family, and a girls’ table etiquette class, among several others.

This masterpiece is available on BluRay and DVD, though both can be hard to find. It’s available as a DVD through Netflix, but not as a streaming video.

3. Eat Drink Man Woman (1994)

Director Ang Lee is well known for movies like Brokeback Mountain and Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon, but this gem is not quite as widely known.

Just watching the first 5 minutes of this movie makes me crave good Chinese food. The movie opens with the household patriarch preparing the food for their Sunday dinner, and the skill and techniques displayed there alone are enough to make the movie worth watching for anyone who cares about food. A great movie all around, though.

Its available as an Amazon streaming video, and it’s also available on DVD/Bluray.

4. Jiro Dreams of Sushi (2012)

OK, I know I said that I wasn’t talking about documentaries, but this one is really good!

As the title suggests, the movie chronicles the life of Japan’s master sushi chef Jiro Ono, who has dedicated his entire life, waking and sleeping, to creating the most perfect sushi possible, regardless of the cost to his family life and his own health.  If you love sushi, you can’t miss this film.

If you have Amazon Prime or Netflix, you can stream Jiro Dreams of Sushi online, and of course, the hard-copy is available from Amazon.

5. God of Cookery (1996)

While the original “Iron Chef” was reaching the peak of its popularity in Japan, Stephen Chow wrote, directed, and starred in the Chinese satire “God of Cookery,” a wacky comedy about a pompous celebrity chef who falls from grace and is forced to rebuild his culinary empire and reputation by selling street food. There’s nothing subtle about this movie, and the humor can be sophomoric, but it is always irreverent and amusing, and frequently LOL funny.

This movie hasn’t made it to BluRay yet, and in fact, it’s not easy to find on DVD. If you’re lucky, you might get one of the remaining copies on Amazon.com, or you can watch a low-res version on YouTube for free.

6. Julie and Julia (2009)

A movie about Julia Child and an obsessive food blogger? Of course it has to be on this list.  I am hard pressed to think of a role in which Meryl Streep did not offer an outstanding performance, and this movie is no exception. This film is also an homage to butter.

As a relatively recent movie, the BluRay and DVDs are readily available,  and it’s also available for rent on Amazon.com or as a Netflix instant video.

7. Like Water for Chocolate (1992)

In this Mexican period-drama, a mother and her three daughters are making a good living running a ranch, but according to their family tradition, the youngest daughter (Tita) is not allowed to marry, since it is her duty to care for her mother as she grows old. Magically, as Tita prepares her family’s meals, her emotions are infused into the food, lacing it with sorrow, lust, or whatever else her complicated life has plunged her into.

The movie is available for free (streaming) to Amazon Prime and Netflix members, and the DVD is readily available. No BluRay has been produced, yet.

8. Chocolat (2000)

I avoided this movie for years because the advertising made it look like a simple romance flick, but Johnny Depp’s character doesn’t even appear in the film until after the 54:00 minute mark. It turns out to be a much more interesting story about disregarding convention and finding happiness.

An American movie set in 1950s France, Chocolat is the tale of a woman and her young daughter who move to a small, tranquil town and open a chocolate shop, upsetting the ingrained routines of the residents. Judi Dench is wonderful as the surly, estranged mother of the mayor’s secretary (Carrie-Anne Moss) and landlord of the chocolaterie. In this story, chocolate plays every role: it symbolizes indulgence and sin to some, joy and freedom to others, it provides strength and it leads to destruction.  In that way, it is very much a metaphor for love.

This movie is easy to find on Amazon as a DVD, BluRay, or instant video, and as a DVD from Netflix (but not streaming, last time I checked).

9. Who’s Killing the Great Chefs of Europe (1978)

If you like murder mysteries and food, this is a good way to spend an evening. It’s not what I’d call a brilliant mystery, but it’s fun and witty, and it all revolves around food. It’s probably been 10 years since I’ve seen this movie, and even though the plot details have faded, I still remember the food. It’s also worth noting that the film’s music was composed by the great Henry Mancini.

This movie is available on DVD, but it wasn’t available for streaming anywhere yet, the last time I checked.

10. A&E’s “A Nero Wolfe Mystery” (2001-2002)  : Poison à la Carte, Champagne For One

America’s greatest detective is also an “aristologist,” and many of the Nero Wolfe mysteries revolve around food in one way or another. Rex Stout also produced the renown “Nero Wolfe Cookbook”, featuring such savory dishes as “Champagne For One’s” Veal Birds in Casserole. Since very few of them have been made into films, I’m listing the A&E series “A Nero Wolfe Mystery”, which is essentially composed of a collection of made-for-TV movies.  Timothy Hutton does a masterful job at bringing Archie Goodwin to life, and the late Maury Chaykin was perfectly cast as Mr. Wolfe. Like the first several seasons of “Poirot”, these are more fun and clever than serious film noir, which suits Stout’s books well.

What this really means is that we’re going to need a list of our Top 10 Fiction Books about Food!

These are available on DVD.

Honorable Mentions:

• Charlie and the Chocolate Factory (Original w/ Gene Wilder)
• Ratatouille
• The Big Night
• Sweeney Todd
• No Reservations/ Bella Martha
• The Ramen Girl
• Soul Food

Suggestions or Comments?

As usual, if you agree or disagree, or can think of a great movie that we’ve left out, let us know in the comments section below!